Hiking and Trekking,  Spain

10 Things we will do differently on our next Camino

Our 38-day Camino Frances trek was one of our best trips but there is always something to learn and room for improvement. Here’s our list of lessons learned in no particular order (except maybe the first one, this is the most important change we would make). We’ve also added a couple of bonus Camino Frances-specific tips at the end.

Plan shorter days

We learned pretty quickly that our feet do best when limit our distance to 10 to 12 miles. For this trip we had booked ahead the entire trip so were committed to a few long days. Now that we know 15 miles is too much for us we will stage our next Camino differently and not worry about staying at the recommended stages. So many of the towns on the Camino are charming, there is no need to limit yourself to the guidebook stages. We’d also swap shorter days for rest days if we had a limited number of days to complete the entire trip.

Reduce pack weight more

My pack was within the 10% of body weight rule but I do wish it was lighter as we carried our packs every day. Before the next trek, I will look at lighter backpacks and smaller battery packs, and scrutinize every ounce that goes into that pack. For first aid there are Farmacias in almost every town, I would pack only the items you might need on the trail (blister care, bandages, and Pepto, for example), everything else you can get there if needed.

Pack less clothing and more socks

We had read you only need two shirts yet still packed four. It’s true you only need two (or three at the most: two with short sleeves, one with long sleeves). I could have packed fewer shorts/pants as well (again you only need two). I only brought two pairs of wool socks and one pair of compression socks; I mostly wore wool. Three pairs of socks would let you change socks midday and have another pair hanging off your pack to dry.

Wait for people to clear out before taking pictures

It took us most of the trip to figure this one out. Often when you arrive at an iconic landmark (like the 100 KM marker or Cruz de Ferro) it will be crowded with folks taking pictures. If you just wait a little bit, those people will clear out and you can have it all to yourself. The Camino is not a steady stream of traffic (even after Sarria).

Learn more Spanish

My Spanish was pretty poor before we left and by the time we were done, I could manage most of the basic transactions like ordering meals, checking into our accommodations, and asking about bathrooms. You will run into many people who do not speak English, Google Translate is great but a bit awkward, and sometimes details are missed in the translation (check out the menu translation below!).

Bring an extra pair of trail runners and have them shipped ahead

The tread, insoles, and cushioning on your trail runners are not going to last 500 miles. We did not bring extras and were unable to find our brand (Hokas) at any of the stores we looked at once we needed replacements (we saw them in a shop in Pamplona but did not need new shoes at that point). Some of the bag transport companies will ship bags ahead to any location and store them until you get there. We would definitely use such a service next time.

If booking ahead, confirm accommodations are near the Camino

This is not an issue in small towns where everything is near the Camino, but for larger towns try to pick accommodations that are not more than a few blocks off the Camino. This will put you closest to restaurants, shops, and other pilgrims and avoid the frustration of arriving in a town only to realize you need to walk an extra kilometer to get to your hostel (and then another extra KM in the morning to get back on the Camino). This happened to us in Estella where after a full day on the Camino we then had a 30-minute walk to the B&B, uphill, with no restaurants or stores nearby. The guidebooks (John Brierley and Moon) and Camino Apps (Wise Pilgrim, Camino Ninja, Gronze, and Buen Camino) are good sources for Camino-friendly accommodations (albergues, hostels, and hotels).

Prepare for rain, lots of rain

We started our Camino in late August and finished on October 2nd. We had more sunny days than rainy days but those rainy days were no joke. Buckets of rain and some wind. I had a rainjacket and pack cover and was completely soaked more than once. Fortunately, it was a warm rain so I was never cold. Next time I will bring either a poncho that covers my pack or rain pants, more likely the poncho as the total weight would be less.

Train more carrying a pack

We did a pretty good job of training for hills but only took our packs a couple of times and never one that was exactly what we planned to take on the Camino – so that training happened on the trail. Had we trained more with packs at home I would have learned lesson #2 before we got on the plane. Training in advance will also help you learn how to adjust your pack just right for you.

Skip the last 100 KM

Bob feels more strongly about this than me, but the last 100 KM is a different Camino because of the number of people that start in Sarria. The Camino is more crowded, noisier, and just has a different feel. Now that we have our Compostela we would consider skipping this stage altogether. If this is your first Camino, I say don’t skip it and get the full experience.

Bonus Camino Frances lessons learned

Here are some specific itinerary we’d make next time we do the Camino Frances:

  • Stay in Foncebadon before the Cruz de Ferro assent to break that uphill climb into two days
  • The descent from Cruz de Ferro is also difficult, consider staying in El Acebo de San Miguel or Molinaseca to give your legs a break. The walk all the way to Ponferrada is tough, especially if it’s raining.
  • Spend the night in O Cebriero to see the sunrise and sunset and attend the Pilgrim’s Mass at Iglesia de Santa María

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