Digital Nomad and Tourist in Bucerias Mexico: How to do it all while eating tacos
Our spring 2022 trip to Bucerias was a vacation for Bob and working remotely for me. Bucerías, Mexico is a charming beach town located in the Mexican state of Nayarit. It is known for its white sand beaches and beautiful crystal clear waters that make it a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. The town is a pleasant, laid-back spot with various activities, from relaxing on the beach to birdwatching, hiking, kite surfing, and exploring the nearby mangroves. Bucerías is also home to vibrant nightlife and unique shopping experiences in its local markets. This trip also involved a lot of tacos which I will highlight in the post. If you want to go straight to the tacos here are the links:
Bucerias is located on the Bay of Banderas, one of the largest bays in the world with an area of over 6,000 kilometers. The bay is known for excellent fishing, whale watching, snorkeling, and a number of small towns each with its own unique character. The bay is also home to the larger city of Puerto Vallarta with even more nightlife, restaurants, and shopping. We love the entire Bay of Banderas area and visit often.
Despite my work schedule, we packed quite a bit into this two-week stay. In addition to the tacos highlighted above we went hiking, caught a show, and ate some things that were not tacos.
- Exploring the Golden Zone
- Hiking Monkey Mountain
- Walking the beach from La Cruz to Bucerias
- Rhythms of the Night Cruise, Dinner, and Show
- Bucerias Dining Highlights and Map
How working remotely worked
On this trip, I worked weekdays and we filled our evenings and weekends with vacation activities. Working remotely from the Puerto Vallarta area works great for me. My home office is in the Pacific time zone, two hours behind Bucerias giving us time for a morning walk for coffee at JoJo’s Café (our favorite coffee spot) and a couple of quiet hours to work before the zoom meetings start. I’d wrap up each day around 5:00 PM, enough time for a walk and dinner out.
We stayed in a one-bedroom unit at Casa Victoria in Bucerias’ Golden Zone. This unit did not have an indoor table that would work comfortably as a desk so I worked most of the time out on the terrace. This worked out fine, especially with the occasional iguana crashing my zoom meetings. Internet was reasonably stable but I was thankful my cell phone plan includes data in Mexico so I could use my cellular hotspot for the one or two outages during our stay. Outages are not unusual in this area.
Bucerias’ Zona Dorado (Golden Zone)
The Zona Dorado, or Golden Zone, is the area south of the river between the ocean and the highway featuring hotels, condominiums, shops, and restaurants. It’s a fun place to stay, centrally located, and walkable and we recommend this neighborhood if it’s your first visit to Bucerias.
Hiking Monkey Mountain
No trip for Bob and me is complete without a hike. Monkey Mountain has been on our list for a while and this was the trip. Monkey Mountain, also known as “La Montaña de los Monos” in Spanish, is a popular hiking destination near the town of Sayulita in Nayarit, Mexico.
The mountain is located about 5 kilometers (3 miles) south of Sayulita and is named after the troop of monkeys that live in the surrounding jungle. We did not see any monkeys but we did see snakes and some fancy birds. There are coati signs near the beginning of the trail and despite our best effort searching for them, we did not see any (we did, however, see plenty of them when we went to Nuevo Vallarta for Rythm of the Nights).
To get there, we took an uber to the small town of Higuera Blanca. Search “Monkey Mountain: Higuera Blanca Trailhead” on google maps to find the start of the trail. We knew we were in the right place when we saw the monkey mural.
The hike to the mountain’s summit takes about 1.5 to 2 hours and is moderately challenging, with steep sections and rocky terrain. There is a short rock scramble near the top. It’s about 4.5 miles round trip with a 1,000-foot elevation gain. We used the All Trails app to help us stay on the trail. There are painted rocks along the way to point you in the right direction. You can also hire a guide to take you up the mountain.
Once we reached the top of the mountain, we were rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the surrounding coastline and lush jungle. There’s also a small shrine at the summit, where locals leave offerings and prayers to the Virgin Mary. When we arrived back in town the bus back to Bucerias had just arrived so we took that back to town.
Walking the beach from La Cruz to Bucerias
We did one other long walk on this trip. We took an uber to the charming beach town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is known for its laid-back, authentic atmosphere, and is a great place to experience a quieter, more traditional side of Mexico. The town has a small fishing harbor and a marina where you can go fishing, sailing, or take a boat tour. There are also several restaurants, bars, and shops in the town, as well as a weekly farmer’s market where you can find fresh produce and handmade crafts.
The farmer’s market is only open on Sundays during high season but is well worth the trip if you are in the area. It is in the town’s main square, located near the marina and the fish market, and features a wide range of locally-made crafts, jewelry, clothing, artwork, and food. It was not open during our visit but we still enjoyed our time in La Cruz.
When it was time to head back we decided to try walking the beach. The walk was about 3.7 miles along the coastline and took about two hours. Some parts of the beach are rocky and difficult to walk on and at one point we did have to jump from rock to rock. If you take this trip be aware of the tide schedule, as high tide may make certain areas impassable. The walk offered many lovely views of the coastline and we passed locals fishing and harvesting oysters along the way.
Bucerias Taco Tour
For our first weekend in Bucerias, we booked a taco tour through Viator. Our guide met us at Karen’s restaurant on the beach and let us through town to a few different taco spots.
- Karen’s Place: Karen’s is a popular beachfront restaurant in the Golden Zone where you can dine indoors or on the beach with your toes in the sand. As with all of their food, the taco plate was delicious.
- Armando’s Place: Frequently rated as one of the top restaurants in Bucerias. Armando’s Place is known for traditional Mexican cuisine, a beautiful outdoor seating area, and live music. The restaurant is mainly known for its ceviche, which is made with fresh local seafood and served with tortilla chips. We had flank steak tacos and molcajete with chips. Molcajete has more to do with how it’s made than specific ingredients. The molcajete is a mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock. It gives the salsa a unique texture and flavor.
- Decapoda: This little restaurant near Valle de Banderas road and Guadalupe Victoria specializes in fish tacos and shrimp. We enjoyed the tuna tacos enough to go back a second time on this trip
- Tacos Junior: We also tried the horchata, a traditional non-alcoholic drink made from ground rice or almonds, along with other ingredients like cinnamon, sugar, and vanilla. Horchata tastes slightly sweet and nutty.
Although we enjoyed the food, we were a little disappointed that our Bucerias Taco Tour guide only took us to four taco places. We did also visit a candy and nut store and a churro stand where it seemed we were expected to make a purchase.
Pitillal Taco Tour
We spent one weekend day exploring the Pitillal neighborhood via a food tour we booked through Viator. Pitillal is about 4 miles east of the Puerto Vallarta city center and it is one of the largest and most densely populated neighborhoods. We took a bus from Bucerias to the Sam’s Club on the main highway and walked from there. There are also buses that can take you from the highway to Pitillal.
Pitillal is a busy neighborhood that offers a mix of residential and commercial areas. It has a vibrant local market, where visitors can buy fresh produce, seafood, and handmade crafts. There are also many restaurants, shops, and other businesses in the area. Despite its recent growth, the neighborhood retains much of its traditional charm, with narrow streets, colorful buildings, and a strong sense of community.
We met our tour guide in the town center with one other couple, he was about an hour late due to a schedule mix-up. He led us through the city stopping at restaurants, food stands, tortilla factories, and a popsicle store. Here a the food stops:
- Tacos Neto: This popular taco stand is known for serving some of the best tacos in the area, with a variety of fillings and toppings to choose from such as carne asada (grilled beef), al pastor (marinated pork), and chorizo (spicy sausage). The tacos are served on freshly made corn tortillas and topped with a variety of salsas, onions, cilantro, and lime juice. Tacos Neto has been in business for over 30 years and has become an institution in the Pitillal neighborhood. The stand is located on the corner of Calle San Salvador and Calle Luis Donaldo Colosio.
- Mariscos Pichi: This seafood restaurant is known for serving a variety of fresh seafood dishes, including ceviche, shrimp cocktails, grilled fish, and seafood soups. Mariscos Pichi is a family-owned business operating in Puerto Vallarta for over 20 years. We had seafood soup and a taco with octopus – both really tasty. This was also our chance for a shot of raicilla. Raicilla is a distilled spirit produced in the Mexican state of Jalisco, specifically in Sierra de Amula and Costa Norte. It is similar to tequila and mezcal, but is made using different agave types and has a distinct flavor profile. It is sometimes referred to as the moonshine version of tequila. It made my throat burn a little.
- Tacos Candora: This taco stand is known for serving a variety of delicious tacos, including carne asada (grilled beef), al pastor (marinated pork), chicken, and chorizo (spicy sausage). It is a family-owned business that has been operating for many years. The stand is located on the corner of Calle San Salvador and Calle Francisco I. Madero. In addition to the numerous taco-filling options this stand also features tortillas that are made fresh right after you place your order. I can recommend the machaca taco. Machaca is a traditional Mexican dish made with dried, shredded meat, typically beef or pork, that is then rehydrated and cooked with a variety of ingredients. Delicious!
- Birrieria Robles: This restaurant specializes in birria, a traditional Mexican dish made with spicy stewed meat, typically goat or beef, that is often served in tacos or as a soup. Birria is a popular dish in many parts of Mexico, and it is especially popular in the state of Jalisco. Birrieria Robles has been in business for over 25 years and is known for serving some of the best birria in Puerto Vallarta. The restaurant is located on the corner of Calle Durango and Calle Jalisco. We had the goat birria and would order it again.
- Cenaduria Tia Anita: This popular restaurant specializes in traditional Mexican cuisine, particularly antojitos mexicanos or “little cravings,” which are small dishes typically served as snacks or light meals. The restaurant has a casual and friendly atmosphere, with both indoor and outdoor seating available. It is located on Calle González Gallo, one of the main streets in Pitillal. The menu at Cenaduria Tia Anita includes a variety of antojitos mexicanos, such as sopes (thick corn tortillas topped with beans, meat, and other toppings), quesadillas, chilaquiles (fried tortilla strips with salsa and other toppings), and tacos. One of the most popular dishes at Cenaduria Tia Anita is the pozole, a traditional Mexican soup made with hominy, meat, and spices. We had tamales – one of my favorite Mexican dishes- a highlight of this trip.
Our last stop was for popsicles. A Mexican popsicle, also known as a paleta, is a frozen treat that is similar to an ice cream bar but is usually made with fresh fruit, juice, and other natural ingredients. Paletas come in a wide variety of flavors, including fruit flavors such as strawberry, mango, and watermelon, as well as more unique flavors such as tamarind, chamoy (a spicy, sweet, and sour sauce), and avocado. Some paletas are also made with cream or yogurt, creating a creamier texture and richer flavor. When you are hot a paleta is a terrific snack to cool you off.
The Pitillal food tour was a lot of fun and we appreciated the insights our guide provided. You could do this tour on your own, but we enjoyed the stories and history that came with the tour.
My Mexican Kitchen Cooking Class
Of all the taco-related things we did on this trip, this was my favorite. This was also one of the best cooking classes I have ever taken. The school offers hands-on cooking classes where you can learn to make traditional Mexican dishes such as tamales, chiles rellenos, and mole sauce. The classes are led by local chefs who have a passion for Mexican cuisine and who share their knowledge and techniques with students. The classes are from 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM so this was something I could easily do after work.
I took the salsa and appetizers class and expectations were low based on a salsa class I had taken on a cruise a couple of years ago. This class was a million times better. We made a variety of cooked salsas and learned so much about traditional cooking and the local ingredients. It was just the right mix of hands-on cooking and demonstrations and all of the food was so, so good. It wasn’t just salsa recipes either, we made tacos dorado, and pollo asado – plenty of food for dinner. You will leave with the recipes so you can make these dishes again (which I have done). I plan on taking another class next time I am in Bucerias and would even be happy to take this same class again.
Rhythms of the Nights “Alma”
One Friday I stopped work early and we headed to Nuevo Vallarta to catch a catamaran to see Rhythms of the Night. Rhythms of the Night is an outdoor theatrical show at Las Caletas, a secluded cove accessible only by sea. The show is produced by Vallarta Adventures, a local tour operator, and features live music, dance, acrobatics, and storytelling. The show is sometimes compared to Cirque du Soliel. The shows differ in that the Rhythms of the Night’s performance style is less acrobatic and the stories focus on Mexican culture and traditions.
The original show created in the late 1990s is set in an ancient village and tells the story of a young couple’s journey to becoming warriors, with the help of a mystical shaman. “Alma” is a newer version of that show. The “Alma” show is also set in an ancient village and tells the story of a young girl who goes on a spiritual journey to discover her inner strength and power.
The performance takes place in a natural amphitheater surrounded by the lush tropical jungle of the Sierra Madre Mountains and the sparkling waters of Banderas Bay. Before the show, there is a buffet dinner featuring traditional Mexican cuisine and a variety of beverages.
The catamaran trip to Las Caletas takes about an hour. Drinks are served and music is played making it a bit of a party atmosphere. The music is quite loud and it is difficult to have a conversation. It feels a bit of a departure from the rest of the evening with the nice dinner by the beach and the performance. On this trip, the weather was rainy and windy and the ride was a bit bumpy. The heavy rains and lightning also delayed the start of the show. The trip back includes a musical show by the boat crew. I
We have seen both versions of Rhythms of the Night and enjoyed them both very much. We purchased the VIP tickets which get you on and off the boat first and upfront seating for the show (close enough to feel the heat from the fire dancers!).
Bucerias Dining Highlights (it wasn’t all tacos)
We had a lot of great meals on this trip. Check out the map below for the locations of all of the Bucerias-based restaurants.
- Karen’s Place: Located right on the beach, Karen’s is one of our favorite restaurants, especially for breakfast. Both the eggs Benedict and pancakes are delicious. The restaurant specializes in fresh seafood and other local dishes, with many of the ingredients sourced from nearby markets and fishermen. Bob made a couple more mid-week trips to Karen’s while I worked. Karen’s is also a great spot for a glass of wine at sunset.
- Sandrina’s: Located on Lazaro Cardenas in the Golden Zone, Sandrina’s is known for its contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a Mexican twist. We were visiting during restaurant week when many restaurants offer special prix-fixe menus at reduced prices. It was a great deal for some terrific food. The outdoor dining at Sandrina’s is beautiful and it really feels like a special place.
- La Negra: Also in the Golden Zone, La Negra is a popular spot for traditional Mexican dishes and Pizza. Located in the oldest house in the neighborhood it feels somewhat like a tree house, especially on the upper level. The food is very good and the restaurant gets busy. You can make reservations online.
- The Fat Boy Seafood: The restaurant is known for its fresh and flavorful seafood dishes, such as ceviche, shrimp tacos, and grilled fish. It has a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, with indoor and outdoor seating options. We were looking for a whole grilled fish and ordered the seafood platter. So much food and so good. Also, they are not kidding about the hot sauce. It’s super hot.
- Mikoh: Mikoh is primarily known for its seafood dishes and cocktails, they also offer a variety of sushi options. We had the sushi and it was excellent. The cocktail options are fun as well.
- Buce-Burger: Located in the “upper eastside” neighborhood on the other side of the highway, Buce-Burgers is often mentioned as having the best hamburgers in Bucerias. The burgers were great and we loved hanging out in a more traditional neighborhood.
- Cervecería Bahia de Banderas Brewery: Cervecería Bahía de Banderas specializes in creating artisanal beers and offers a range of beer styles, including IPAs, stouts, amber ales, and wheat beers, as well as seasonal and limited edition brews. Cervecería Bahía de Banderas also operates a taproom and restaurant on the other side of the highway. The shrimp tacos with a jimaca shell were delicious.
- Mr. & Mrs. Fish: Possibly the best fish and chips in Bucerias. They are in the centro area on Miguel Hidalgo.
- Tacos Al Pastor El Fogoncito: Located in the “upper eastside” Tacos Al Pastor El Fogoncito specializes in tacos al pastor, a classic Mexican dish consisting of pork that has been marinated in a mixture of spices and chiles, then cooked on a vertical spit called a trompo. Also my favorite type of taco. This is a friendly, casual, laid-back place with good food at great prices.
- Barchelata Beer Bar: We never ate here but did visit a couple of times for a beer. This is a fun little sports bar on the south end of the Golden Zone. The outdoor seats just off the street fill up quickly.
- Ozzie’s Sports Bar & Grill: Another place we never ate at but did stop by a couple of times for beer. Located in the Golden Zone, this is a fun place with friendly people.
Bucerias Highlights Map
Here’s a map of where all we went in Bucerias.