Chartering a Sailboat in Croatia: Best Vacation Ever Even If You Don’t Know How to Sail
The TLDR or Reader's Digest Version: - You can do this trip with zero sailing experience - Hiring a skipper and hostess makes this even more of a vacation. They take care of everything. - It can be expensive, but if you go with a group and share costs it could be more affordable - We went to Solta, Jelsa, Stari Grad, Hvar, Komiza, Vis, and Milna - The Dalmatian Islands are unbelievably beautiful. Vis was our favorite (both Vis and Komiza). Stari Grad was also amazing. - Try the cuttlefish risotto
How Two People who do not Sail Ended up Chartering A Catamaran
Thirty-plus years ago I charted a sailboat with friends in the British Virgin Islands. In addition to the beautiful scenery, warm waters, and interesting islands this vacation was unique. You are not tied to an itinerary, you can get to places that would be otherwise difficult, and you are with a group of people you already know you like. Fast forward thirty years and I am at a yacht club women’s night hearing about chartering boats in Croatia. Add another trip to the bucket list.
Bob and I do not own a boat. I sailed quite a bit in my youth but hardly ever now. I explained the benefits of my bucket list trip to Bob and how you can hire a skipper to do all the sailing bits and a hostess to take care of us. He was in. We started searching for a charter company and he found Sail Croatia. We picked some dates in September and chartered a monohull for the two of us. For the record, we did not once have anything to do with operating or sailing the boat. The crew and the family were all satisfied with that arrangement.
We Need a Bigger Boat
Around the same time, Bob’s daughter was planning an extended trip to Europe. Wouldn’t it be fun for Louise to join us in Croatia? For that matter, wouldn’t it be fun for Tyler and Hannah to join us too? Back to the Sail Croatia website to look at other boat options. Ideally, we’d have four cabins plus room for the crew so we started looking at catamarans and found Dragonfly, a 45-foot Lagoon.
She was perfect. Dragonfly has four large cabins each with its own head (bathroom) and shower. That is the beauty of the catamaran, with two hulls you get twice as much room for cabins. Catamarans are also very stable if you have any concerns about motion sickness.
In addition to the four cabins, Dragonfly has crew cabins at the bow. She has a large galley/salon with a dining area and a large outdoor sitting area with a table in the cockpit area. We always ate outside. The cockpit area also has two swim ladders for easy access to the water.
There’s a large sitting area on the foredeck where the kids could hang out away from their parents – and of course, it has the classic catamaran trampoline netting. Dragonfly was in excellent condition, there was plenty of room to spread out – we could not have asked for more.
For entertainment, Dragonfly has wi-fi and a sound system. Although after I played Shakira’s “Hips Don’t Lie” one afternoon I was never invited to use it again. Dragonfly also comes with a paddle board and we paid to rent snorkel gear from Sail Croatia. The salon has a TV but we never used it.
The Itinerary
Having selected the boat we needed to cobble together some ideas of where we wanted to go. There are two main options. Start from Split and return to Split or start from Split and end in Dubrovnik. We thought with only a week it would be better to focus on a smaller area so we chose to return to Split. When we do this again we will charter the boat for two weeks and do the Split to Dubrovnik route. We did drive to Dubrovnik to spend a few days exploring that historic city once we done sailing (I will write a separate post on that).
Sail Croatia publishes three recommended itineraries – we studied the different islands and knew we wanted to see Vis, Hvar, and Stari Grad. Having done this type of vacation before, we also knew the wisdom of getting recommendations from the crew so we left with an open mind. Keep reading for a day-by-day breakdown of the places we visited.
How it Works with a Skipper and Hostess
It is not as awkward to vacation with two complete strangers in a relatively small space as you might think. With Sail Croatia, hiring a skipper is a requirement and included in the boat fee. Hiring a Hostess is optional but something I highly recommend. Our skipper, Tony, took care of all the boat things – he did the sailing, coordinated mooring, and provided guidance on where to go. Our hostess, Marta, kept the boat tidy, and made coffee/espressos, breakfast, lunch, and snacks. We were responsible for dinner each day, including taking Tony and Marta to dinner with us. They were both easy to hang out with so these were fun dinners.
The hostess will also do the shopping if you like. We were not sure what to expect so did the first round of provisioning at the Konzum market near the marina. Once we saw the amazing food Marta was serving we handed over all of the food decisions to her. Having a hostess made the trip more of a vacation for everyone. No one had to worry about planning meals, cooking, or cleaning up. Marta’s hospitality was a highlight of the trip – we all appreciated everything she did for us to make this trip special. Tony was great as well, but he wasn’t Marta.
Dragonfly is large enough that we had plenty of privacy. Marta would get up early every morning to make coffee – we could never figure out how she managed to walk across the deck above our heads without making any noise. We imagined her walking like a cat or a ninja across the deck to be as quiet as possible.
What did it Cost?
Boat, Skipper, and Hostess
The cost will vary based on the time of year. Sail Croatia is very transparent with their pricing and you can see what any week would cost towards the bottom of Dragonfly’s page. The pricing is the same regardless of how many people are on the boat. When we sailed the cost of the skipper was included in the price. We paid an additional €910 in 2021 for a hostess for 7 days. Two sets of snorkel gear were an additional €20. Fuel is included in the charter fee – there are no additional costs associated with the boat.
It is also typical to tip your skipper and hostess at the end of the trip. The Mediterranean Yacht Brokers Association (MYBA) recommends 5% to 15% of your charter cost. Some say to just tip the skipper and have him allocate to the hostess but I think it’s also OK to do the splitting yourself. We wished we had brought cards with images from home to leave the tip in along with a nice note – I think we ended up writing a thank you note on a paper bag!
Mooring Fees
There are three options for mooring in Croatia each with its pros and cons – we did a mix
- Marina – We docked at the marina in Jelsa and Stari Grad. While it is the most expensive option it is also the most convenient as you do not need your dingy to get to shore and therefore can easily come and go as you please. Marinas charge €40 to €200 a night depending on the time of year and boat size.
- Mooring Buoys – Several restaurants allow you to tie up to their mooring buoys at no cost if you have dinner at their restaurant. Your skipper or hostess can sometimes reserve one in advance. There are also mooring buoys without the dining requirement but those come with a fee (around €40). We only used mooring buoys associated with restaurants. The food was good so no regrets.
- Anchoring – Anchoring is free and with a skipper, someone else gets to worry about dragging the anchor at night. We did this once when all the mooring buoys were taken in the bay we wanted to stay at for the evening.
Food
When we took this trip I did not know I’d be starting a travel blog so I don’t have as many details on pricing as I’d like. We procured food or breakfast, lunch, snacks, and drinks from local markets and I don’t recall the prices being much different than what we would pay at home. Dinner for seven of us each evening (with wine) could get expensive – but that was more a factor of the number of people than the restaurants being outrageously costly. I think we spent anywhere from €200 to €400 a night for dinner. The nice thing about this type of trip is you get to decide what you are comfortable with.
Sailing in Croatia: Our Adventures Day by Day
Starting in Split, our seven-day cruise took us to Solta, Jelsa, Stari Grad, Hvar, Komiza, Vis, and Milna. We left the marina with an idea of the places we wanted to see and met with our skipper each morning to confirm plans.
Day 1: Split to Solta
We arrived in Split a few days before we headed out on Dragonfly (see our Five Unforgettable Days in Old Town Split post for details). The family packed up and left Villa Pikela early and walked our bags to the ACI Marina in Split – too early to board the boat so we left our bags at the Sail Croatia office and headed to Restaurant Adriatic for lunch. Restaurant Adriatic is just up the hill from the Marina and offers spectacular views.
Provisioning
After lunch we walked to the Konzum market for our first round of provisioning – we enjoy a good charcuterie board so this included a lot of meats and cheeses. Shopping in a store where you don’t know the language was fun (we think this is mustard, is this mustard?). Also challenging when you are not sure what your hostess can cook (as it turned out she could cook anything and had much better ideas than we did). You can have your hostess make this first provisioning run. Next time we will do that.
Heading out
Back at the marina with all the food we gathered our gear at the marina office and headed for the boat where w met Tony and Marta for the first time. They gave us a quick tour of Dragonfly and we discussed the plan for the day.
With the mid-day start, we agreed it made sense to make the short run to Šolta Island and try to secure a restaurant mooring buoy. Tony knew a place. It was a beautiful day to be on the water and we all relaxed on the deck enjoying the sunshine and fresh air.
When we arrived in the bay all of the mooring buoys were taken so Tony set the anchor. Once secure we went for a swim in the bay. The water was warm enough (not warm though) and very, very clear. At dinner time we piled in the dinghy and headed out to Kenoba Mareta. A table at this family-run restaurant is difficult to obtain in high season; in late September we did not have a problem The restaurant served local wines, seafood, and meats. Everything was delicious and the service was warm and friendly.
Day 2: Solta to Jelsa on Island Hvar
Today we headed to Island Hvar with a stop for swimming and paddle boarding off Island Hvar along the way. We motored all the way – first through the passage between Solta and Brac and then east, headed to Jelsa. Brac was on our port side and we could see dozens of vineyards on the steep hills.
We moored in Jelsa harbor backed right up to the Riva.
We spent the day wandering around town and checking out some of the historical sites. St. John’s Chapel dates back to the 15th century and is surrounded by some of Jelsa’s oldest houses.
In the morning before we left Jelsa we made another trek on the south side of the harbor out to the town cemetery and former site of an Augustinian monastery (hermitage).
The Fortified Church Of Our Lady’s Assumption is a gothic church dating back to the 14th century. Under threat of Turkish attack, It was turned into a fortress in the 16th century. The church grounds also include a lapidarium with medieval artifacts. Towering over the other old town builders, the church’s spire is the most prominent feature in Jelsa.
At the west end of the harbor is Park Jelsa honoring Captain Niko Duboković former mayor of Jelsa. It’s a lovely wooded area with statues of Duboković and composer Antun Dobronić. From there, we walked along the Riva on the north side of the harbor. Terrific view of the town from that side. We ate dinner in town and Lynn had her second round of cuttlefish risotto.
Day 3: Jelsa to Stari Grad on Island Hvar
Around lunchtime we took the sails down and took a break to eat and swim. Lovely setting looking into the valley with vineyards on the hillside.
There was a nice breeze as we left Jelsa Harbor – enough to sail Dragonfly so Tony set the sails and we were off, heading north to Stari Grad – also on island Hvar. We had light winds the rest of the trip – this would be the only sailing day.
After lunch, we headed back north towards Stari Grad. Coming into Stari Grad by boat was such fun. Stari Grad sits at the end of a long, protected bay and you don’t get a full view of the town until you are just about there. The Riva is vibrant with brightly colored buildings, palm trees, and boats everywhere.
Stari Grad had a nice selection of interesting shops and galleries and we left with more than a couple of keepsakes. Stari Grad feels relaxed and cool, a place I’d like to return to and spend more time.
Wandering around town we could see some of the rich histories of the area, including a Roman mosaic that was being excavated under the sidewalk of an old stone house. The town was first settled by the Greeks in the 2nd century BC. The deep bay provided good protection while the land outside the bay was ideal for cultivating crops.
The area was later ruled by the Romans, then in the 13th century, the people of Hvar put themselves under the protection of the Venetian Republic. The Turks attacked Stari Grad in the 16th century at one point burning down the town. Stari Grad rebuilt and over the next two centuries became a prosperous sea town.
Stari Grad Plain
After wandering around town a bit it was time to head to a special evening on Stari Grad Plain, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stari Grad Plain is an agricultural area set up by the Greeks in the 4th century BC. The plain was divided into 75 parcels separated by stone walls. The Greeks also built small stone huts called trims used to store tools and provide an escape from the weather. Many of those stone walls and trims are in use today. Stari Grad Plain farms preserve ancient Greek agriculture.
We had dinner at Hora Hvar – a family-run working farm where they grow grapes, olives, lavenders and other vegetables. Tony arranged the meal and for a driver to take us to dinner and pick us up.
A true farm-to-table experience, everything served was grown on the farm. Hora Hvar’s specialty is Peka, a traditional Croatian dish where meat (lamb, veal, fish, or octopus) and vegetables are placed in a pan over an open fire, covered with a dome-shaped earthenware lid, and cooked under hot embers for several hours. You must order your Peka in advance.
In addition to the peka, dinner came with a meat and cheese tray, bread, salad, and dessert. We also enjoyed some Hora wine – a different variety with each course. The food was delicious and the setting was unforgettable. A real “wow” evening.
Day 4: Stari Grad to Bay Pribinja and Hvar Town
Today would be another short trip on Dragonfly to Bay Pribinja. Rather than staying in the busy Hvar harbor, Tony suggested we stay here and take a car into Hvar Town. Hvar has a reputation as a party town; staying in the bay also ensured a quiet evening.
As has become our routine, we stopped for a swim along the way eventually tying up to a mooring buoy owned by Kenoba Arsenal where we would have dinner.
Our driver picked us up at the restaurant and dropped us off at Tvrdava Fortica, the medieval fortress with spectacular views of Hvar and the Pakleni Islands. The fortress sits atop a hill settled by the Illyrians in 500 BC. The Byzantines constructed a citadel in the 6th century AD and the Venetians began the construction of a fortress in the 13th century AD. Tvrdava Fortica protected the citizens of Hvar in the 16th century when the Turks invaded.
We paid about $9 USD each to get inside the fortress. Tvrdava Fortica has some interesting historic artifacts like amphorae found in nearby sea beds. There are a couple of gift stores with some interesting art pieces and a cafe as well. The views make it all worthwhile.
Done exploring the fortress we took the trail into town – it’s a 30 to 45-minute walk down a gently sloping hill. In late September Hvar was pretty quiet. The Cathedral of St. Stephen in Hvar’s central square was closed for renovations so we could not visit. We had pizza for lunch and walked around a bit checking out the clock tower, Venetian Loggia, and the Riva. We grabbed a taxi and headed back to the bay for dinner.
Day 5: Bay Pribinja to Komiza on Island Vis
Today we leave Island Hvar and head to the last island on our tip, Island Vis. Once again we stopped to swim – this time off the coast of Vis. The waters in the area are crystal clear and we typically see fish when we swim.
We spent our first night on Vis in Komiza – a charming fishing village on the western side of the island beneath Hum hill. We walked through the Selo, the oldest neighborhood in Komiza with its breccia houses. Selo is away from the port to protect settlers from pirates. Just past Selo and up the hill are olive groves and the St. Nicholas Church built in the 12th century. Walking towards the church we could see the terraced farmland – an ancient farming practice to make the best use of available space. The walk to the church is probably 15 to 20 minutes but it took us a bit longer for all the picture-taking and plaque reading.
Back in town, we stopped for an Aperol Spritz at Cafe Bar Škor on the Riva. This part of town has a variety of restaurants and plenty of interesting shops. This late in the season (September 30) a few things were closed but we still really enjoyed our time in Komiza. At night we could see the lights of the shrimp boats out west. In the morning we were treated to a couple of fishermen working right off our port side. Bob and I sat on the deck drinking coffee, watching them set and work the net and pull in their catch. We all agree – Komiza was our favorite stop.
Day 6: Komiza to Vis Town
The first day of October was our last day in the islands and we spent that day in Vis first exploring the town and most memorably renting a car and touring the island. The run from Komiza to Vis was pretty quick so we had the entire day to explore.
Our road trip took us back to the west side of the island up to Vis’s highest point, Mt. Hum (1926 feet / 587 meters), and returning via the vineyards and wineries on the south side.
Our first stop was St. Michael’s Church a hill just east of Komiza. The former Benedictine monastery property dates back to the 12th Century AD. The church opens just one day a year on the Feast of St. Michael. It was a nice stop and interesting to look around and enjoy the view even though we could not go inside.
From there the road winds downhill towards Komiza and back up again. Where the main road turns to head west towards Vis we stopped to enjoy the view of Biševo Island – home of the famous Blue Caves that we did not visit this trip. We turned off the main road at Podšplije and headed up to Mount Hum, Vis’s highest point. There is a military radar station at the top – it is strictly off-limits. We parked the car a bit before the station and took a path to the Holy Spirit (Sv Duh) Chapel and a stunning view of Komiza. Towards the top, it’s a dirt road and it gets a little rough.
We turned back on the main road at Podšplije and continued on towards Vis. This part of the island is agricultural – full of olive groves, vineyards, and wineries. We stopped for wine tasting and a winery tour at Vislander in Milna. This is a lovely spot with good food, nice wines, and super friendly people. We would love to go back and visit during the harvest season (we were just a bit late for that).
With some wine and grappa in our bags, we headed back for an evening in Vis where Lynn enjoyed some cuttlefish risotto.
The next morning Bob and I walked southeast to the oldest part of town, the former settlement of Kut. The area is largely residential with some restaurants and hotels along the way. Sites to see in Kut include the 18th-century Church of St. Cyprian and Justina with its beautiful staircase, and a couple of palaces.
Day 7: Vis Town to Milna on Island Brac to Split
Our last full day on the boat! We made the decision to spend our final night on the boat back in the Split ACI Marina so we could get up early the next morning and start our drive to Dubrovnik. An added benefit is no mooring charges at the marina. We spent a couple of hours in Milna on the way back wandering around while Tony refueled the boat. This late in the season Milna was very quiet with almost no restaurants open.
Being the last day on the boat Marta assembled our remaining food into an amazing lunch: chicken, risotto, and the most amazing dish made with leftover crepes, cheeses, and meats.
Leaving Milna we motored past the Mrduja Regatta – Sailing Festival with dozens of boats trying to race in calm winds. A nice end to our catamaran adventure.
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