Five Unforgettable Days in Old Town Split, Croatia

In September 2021 Bob and I made our first trip to Croatia.  The focal point of this trip would be our seven-day catamaran charter exploring the islands off the Dalmatian coast with three of our children (see our Chartering a Sailboat in Croatia post for more information on that epic adventure).  Intrigued by the rich history of Split,  Bob and I arrived a few days early to explore. We visited the historical sites, hung out at the waterfront, did some hiking, and ate more than a little gelato and little fish

The Greeks were the first to settle in Split in the 2nd or 3rd century BC. It has since been part of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, the Venetian Republic, the Kingdom of Dalmatia, and Yugoslavia.  Croatia gained its independence in 1991.  We would see signs of all these periods throughout our trip.

Our Stay at Villa Pikela

For this stay, we rented an Airbnb that would hold all five of us in the old town area.  Villa Pikela is about three blocks to the waterfront and an easy walk to everywhere we wanted to go.  It is a 250-year-old classic stone house with enough room for all five of us and worked well for this trip. As a classic old stone house, it has narrow and uneven stairs that could be difficult to navigate for some.

There’s a lovely outdoor patio and the house is close to restaurants and shopping. Less than a block away we found a laundry with a wash-and-fold service. Located in the Varo district, this location could not have been more convenient.

Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace

Built for the Roman Emperor in the early 4th century AD this UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most popular places in Split. Inside the walls of the fortress, you will find the Romanesque Bell Tower Cathedral of Saint Domnius, the domed vestibule (rotunda), and the cellars. The Peristyle sits at the heart of the palace – it’s a classic roman courtyard complete with columns and arches. The Temple of Jupiter sits at the far end of the Peristyle. Inside the palace walls, we found souvenirs and art pieces. Likewise, the surrounding area is full of interesting shops and restaurants.

We made several trips to Diocletian’s Palace and found something new each time, the nighttime visit was particularly memorable.

Riva Waterfront Promenade

The Split waterfront features a lively pedestrian walkway with many, restaurants, bars, and gelato cafes. We had gelato almost every day in Croatia – it is so good and we have nothing like it back home. We have gelato at home, we just found it creamier and more delicious in Croatia- and so many interesting flavors. Or maybe it was the location that made it so delicious. The Riva was a fun place to grab a glass of wine and do some people-watching.

Marjan Forest and a Trail Full of Churches

Sitting to the west of the old town, Marjan is a forested hill that has been used as a park since the 3rd Century BC. This pine forest offers jogging tracks, bike paths, trails, tennis courts, spectacular views, and a little history along the way.

Taking the Marjan Hill Stairs

Alternatively, if you are not up for a stair climb, an Uber or taxi can also get you to the restaurant and the start of the trail. The forest trail is relatively flat if you are not a fan of hills.

The Hike and the Churches along the Way

Sufficiently recovered from the stairs, we headed out for our hike. We did not make it far before stopping at the first of many wonderful views of the Adriatic and shortly thereafter the first stone church on the trail, the Church of Saint Nicholas the Traveler built in 1219.

Further down the trail, we stopped at the Church of Saint Jerome. Saint Jerome is the patron saint of Dalmatia and it is believed he lived and wrote in the cave behind the Church. This site dates back to the 15th century.

Also dating back to the 15th century, one of the most interesting sites on the trail is the Karepić Hermitage which can only be accessed by rope ladder.

There are at least seven churches in the Marjan area; we missed a couple – For that reason alone, we would definitely revisit them next time we are in Split. This place is fascinating.

How to get to the Marjan Park Forest via the Stairs

Kaštelet and Ježinac Beaches

We took a short uber ride one afternoon to the pebble beaches of Kaštelet and Ježinac on the Adriatic coast. In late September they were not too crowded however all of the beach services were closed. We had brought water but no food. Consequently, we did not spend the entire day at the beach. The water was crystal clear and a little cold.

Dining in Split

We had a lot of good food in Split, here are a few places that stood out.

Konoba Fetivi

A konoba is a tavern-style restaurant. Konoba Fetivi is a family-run establishment featuring regional meat and seafood dishes. Kenoba Fetivi has earned Michelin Bib Gourmand status meaning it’s a friendly place with good food at reasonable prices. We agree. The service was outstanding and the food was terrific. Try the cuttlefish risotto (black risotto).

Cicibela Food and Wine bar

Split Vending Machines

Map of Split Highlights